As the warm weather rolls in, many of us start thinking about ways to protect ourselves from the sun’s harmful rays while still enjoying the outdoors. And what better way to do that than with a stylish and functional crochet sunhat?
That’s why I’m excited to share with you a free Chloe Crochet Sunhat Pattern that not only provides ample shade with its wide brim, but also features an airy texture that’s perfect for those hot summer days.
Inspired by the Granny squares, popularized in the 1960s and 70s, traditionally used to create blankets and afghans, granny squares have now found their way into a wide range of projects, from clothing and accessories to of course sun hats!
With sizes for babies, toddlers, children, and adults all included in this free pattern, everyone can stay protected from the sun in style. This crochet sun hat features a beautiful ruffled floppy brim and a tight weave at the top, making it the perfect accessory for any fall or sunny day in the park. And the best part? The pattern comes with a full video tutorial and a free crochet pattern, so even beginners can create this beautiful hat with ease. This pattern checks all the boxes!
Plus, with instructions for charming leaves and roses, you can add your own personal touch and make it unique to your taste.
This hat isn’t just for summer though, made with either acrylic or cotton yarn, this sunhat is a must-have for any fashion-forward individual who wants to stay both chic and sun-safe. With a large floppy brim to protect your eyes from the sun and a closed top to protect your head, this hat is both stylish and practical. The open weave on the sides allows for a refreshing breeze, making it perfect for any outdoor activity.
If you love the style but just want a beanie – check out the Chloe Beanie Pattern which also includes a video tutorial.
Watch Video Tutorial Below
- Watch Video Tutorial Below
- Designers Notes
- Best yarn for this pattern
- Free Printables
- Substituting yarn
- What’s the best yarn for a crochet sunhat?
- Wondering how to adjust the sun hat pattern for different sizes?
- How to care for your crochet sunhat.
- Free Crochet Pattern Instructions for Chloe Sunhat
- Skill Level
- Abbreviations
- Gauge
- Materials Needed
- Yarn Gauge:
- Notes
- Options for Finishing Brim
- Fabric stiffener spray (smaller sizes only)
- Do nothing and enjoy (smaller sizes only)
- Wire Edging – A must for the adult size
- 0 – 6 Months
- 1 – 3 Years
- 3 – 10 Years
- Ladies
How to print this pattern
If you’re looking for a crochet pattern that you can take with you anywhere, and that is easy to read and follow, then look no further!
I’ve created an INEXPENSIVE ad-free version of my popular crochet pattern that you can easily download from Etsy. This way, you can mark up the pattern as needed without any distractions, and enjoy crocheting it wherever you go.
Thanks so much for supporting my blog!
- Add Pattern to your Ravelry Library
- Download on Etsy
- Pin Now Make Later
Newest Posts to the Blog
- Chloe Free Crochet Sun Hat Pattern For Newborns to Adults
- Summer Breeze Free Crochet Headband Pattern
- The Fisherman Throw Crochet Pattern – Even Cozier Now!
- Ultimate Guide to Mastering Crochet Gauge
- The Logan Beanie Free Crochet Summer Hat Pattern For Your Whole Family
Before we dive into the pattern, I want to share a personal story about why I love wide brim hats, especially when it comes to gardening. You see, I have a bit of a history with gardening and sun protection mishaps. While tending to my vegetable garden (that is a pretty loose term seeing as I only really manage to grow good tomatoes lol), I foolishly decided to forgo a hat and instead relied on my trusty sunscreen. It wasn’t until later that evening, after spending hours in the sun, that I realized my mistake. My face was beet red and my scalp was so burnt that even the slightest breeze felt like daggers.
From that moment on, I vowed to never make the same mistake again. And so began my love affair with wide brim hats. Not only do they provide ample shade for my face and scalp, but they also add a certain je ne sais quoi to my gardening attire. I mean, who doesn’t feel a little extra fabulous while harvesting tomatoes in a stylish hat?
So, if you’re like me and want to avoid sunburns and look fabulous while gardening, or simply want a stylish accessory to wear on those sunny beach days, then this free crochet sunhat pattern is perfect for you. With sizes ranging from newborn to adult, you can make one for yourself and your little ones. And with its airy texture, you’ll stay cool and comfortable while still looking your best.
Designers Notes
💕 Skill Level is Easy
💕 Skills Needed double crochet, single crochet
💕 Sizes Newborn to Adult
💕 Made with worsted weight yarn great for cotton or acrylic
💕 All sizes written individually
💕 Written in Standard American terms
Best yarn for this pattern
Cotton yarn
When it comes to making summer hats, cotton yarn is a great choice because it’s breathable and lightweight. Here are a few cotton yarns that I recommend for making summer hats:
- Lily Sugar ‘n Cream: This affordable 100% cotton yarn comes in a wide range of colors and is great for making hats that can withstand wear and tear. It’s easy to work with and machine washable.
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton: This mercerized cotton yarn is both durable and breathable, making it a great choice for summer hats. It comes in a range of bright and pastel colors and has a slight sheen that adds a touch of elegance to your project.
No matter which cotton yarn you choose, make sure to check the recommended hook size and gauge before you start your project to ensure that you get the right tension and fit for your summer hat.
Acrylic Yarn
The closed-top design with insulating properties will keep you warm and toasty when the snow starts to fall. And let’s be real, who doesn’t love easy-care yarn that won’t shrink in the wash? But hold on tight – save the acrylic yarn for winter! Its insulating properties make it less-than-ideal for summer wear, as it can lead to some serious overheating.
Remember, the type of yarn you choose can make or break your crochet project. Whether you’re going for the ultimate winter hat with acrylic yarn or a cool and comfortable summer beanie with cotton, consider the season and how you’ll wear it.
- Add Pattern to your Ravelry Library
- Download on Etsy
- Pin Now Make Later
Free Printables
Substituting yarn
When substituting yarns for a crochet pattern, it’s crucial to keep the gauge as close as possible to the original yarn. Gauge refers to the number of stitches and rows in a given area of the crochet fabric, and it affects the size and shape of the finished project.
If the gauge of the substitute yarn is significantly different from the original yarn, the project’s feel and look may be affected. To ensure that the finished project looks and feels as close to the original design as possible, make a swatch with the substitute yarn and compare it to the original yarn swatch to match the gauge.
Be sure to visit www.yarnsub.com to help you choose the right substitute.
What’s the best yarn for a crochet sunhat?
Well, let me tell you, cotton is the way to go! Not only is it durable and able to withstand frequent washing, but it’s also breathable, which means you won’t have to worry about feeling sweaty and uncomfortable in the sun. Plus, with so many colours and textures to choose from, you can easily find a cotton yarn that matches your personal style and the look of your sunhat. Trust me, using cotton yarn will help you create a beautiful and functional sunhat that will make heads turn!
Wondering how to adjust the sun hat pattern for different sizes?
Fear not, my friend! This free crochet sunhat pattern includes multiple sizes, from newborn to adult, so you can choose the perfect size for the intended recipient. Just follow the pattern instructions and watch the helpful video tutorial for extra guidance. Whether you’re a crochet pro or a newbie, you’ll be able to create a customized sunhat that fits like a glove and looks fantastic.
How to care for your crochet sunhat.
Once you’ve crocheted your sunhat, it’s important to take care of it properly to ensure it lasts for many summers to come. Hand washing with mild detergent and lukewarm water is the way to go, avoiding harsh chemicals that can damage the yarn fibres.
Reshape your sunhat and lay it flat to dry away from direct sunlight or heat sources. And if it loses its shape, don’t worry! You can use an iron to reshape it, just don’t scorch or melt the yarn fibres. With proper care and maintenance, your crochet sunhat will be your go-to accessory for all your summer activities.
Free Crochet Resource Downloads
Free Crochet Pattern Instructions for Chloe Sunhat
This crochet sunhat pattern draws inspiration form the ever so popular granny square and is perfect any fall or sunny warm day in the park. The hat features a ruffled floppy brim and a tight weave at the top to provide excellent sun protection for your head, while the big brim shields your eyes from the bright sun.
The pattern also includes instructions for making charming leaves and roses, making it a fun and rewarding project for any crochet enthusiast. Whether made with acrylic or cotton yarn, this sunhat is a must-have for any fashion-forward individual looking to stay both chic and sun-safe.
- Add Pattern to your Ravelry Library
- Download on Etsy
- Pin Now Make Later
Skill Level
Easy
Abbreviations
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
sc – single crochet
st – stitch
sts – stitches
slst – slip stitch
rpt – repeat
Gauge
Using 6.50 mm hook and #4 worsted weight yarn
12 rows + 12 sts across of sc = 4″ x 4″
A gauge swatch is vital for a well-fitting crochet hat. It determines stitch tension and measures the number of stitches and rows. Comparing it to the pattern’s gauge ensures the final hat fits as desired. Adjust hook or tension if needed for a perfectly fitting hat.
To do a crochet gauge swatch using a single crochet stitch, start by using the same type of yarn and crochet hook that you plan to use for your hat. Begin crocheting a square approximately 4” x 4” using the single crochet stitch, making sure to maintain an even tension throughout. Once your swatch is complete, measure it using a ruler or measuring tape to determine the number of stitches and rows per inch.
Even though the hat is made using a different stitch, this gauge swatch will give you an idea of how your tension will affect the overall size of your finished product.
Materials Needed
Finished Measurements & Yarn Requirements
Please note that the actual amount of yarn needed may change depending on the yarn chosen always purchase a little more than you think you may need.
Vanna’s Choice Yarn Used for Hats in Photos
Note the measurements in chart DO NOT include the brim.
| Sizing | Worsted Weight Yarn Requirements | |||||
| Width | Height | G | M | O | Y | |
| 0 to 6 months | 16” | 5” | 100 | 212 | 3.53 | 232 |
| 6 to 12 months | 18 | 6” | 120 | 254 | 4.23 | 278 |
| 12 months to 3 yrs | 19” | 6.5” | 140 | 296 | 4.94 | 324 |
| 3 to 10 yrs | 20” | 7” | 170 | 360 | 6.00 | 394 |
| Adult | 22” | 7.5” | 200 | 424 | 7.05 | 463 |
Some items below click through to an affiliate link at no extra cost to you.
You can check out all my favourites HERE
Yarn Gauge:
Gauge must be matched for the correct fit of this hat, matching the recommended yarn gauge can assist in successful substitution and result in a more accurate finished product.
Recommend Cotton Worsted Weight Yarns
Recommended Acrylic Worsted Weight Yarns
50” Millinery Wire OR Plastic Memory Wire OR Metal Wire 12 to 15 Gauge recommended.
Choose one of the following for securing your wire in place
Hot glue gun and glue or. Clear floral tape or
Wire crimp connectors – be sure that the size you choose is correct for your wire size. You will also need pliers to close.
Scissors
Crochet Hooks
5.00 mm crochet hookused for brim of hat
6.50 mm crochet hook used for main part of hat and roses and leaves. You can use any size hook you like size of finished rose and leaves will change accordingly.
Notes
This hat will be worked in rounds, use a marker in first stitch of each round to indicate the beginning of each round.
When working rounds of single crochet all loops between crossed cluster should be picked up. See reference photo below.
Options for Finishing Brim
After completing your crochet hat with a floppy brim, it’s time to give it a finishing touch. First, make sure to weave in all the ends to give your project a neat appearance.
Ultimately, the method you choose will depend on your personal preference and the look you’re going for with your sunhat.
Using a fabric stiffener or starch spray will provide added structure and help the hat maintain its shape. However, this is recommended for baby and toddler sizes only. The brim is quite large so a stiffening spray will do little to hold the brim up on the adult size.
Also note that the stiffener will need to be reapplied after washing.
By following these finishing steps, you can create a crochet hat that looks great and can be worn for many seasons to come.
Fabric stiffener spray (smaller sizes only)
The white baby sunhat was treated with fabric stiffener spray, which made the brim stiff but still lightweight and flexible.
If you want your hat to have a bit more structure and hold its shape better, you can use a fabric stiffener or starch spray. Fabric stiffener is a liquid product that is applied to fabric or yarn to make it firmer and more rigid. The product works by coating the fibres of the fabric or yarn and drying to create a stiff layer.
To use fabric stiffener on your hat, simply spray it onto the brim of the hat and let it dry completely. Once the product dries, it will create a stiff layer that will help the brim hold its shape. This is particularly useful for hats that are intended to be worn frequently, as it will help the brim stay in place and prevent it from drooping or becoming misshapen over time.
Do nothing and enjoy (smaller sizes only)
The pink and purple sunhat were made without any wire or fabric stiffener, giving it a more casual and floppy look.
Wire Edging – A must for the adult size
If you are adding wire to the brim this will need to be done while working the final round of the brim regardless of which size you are making.
The cream adult sunhat was stiffened with wire, which gave it a more structured and formal look.
Use wire or floral stem: You can insert a piece of wire or a floral stem around the edge of the brim to help it hold its shape. Simply insert the wire or stem into the crochet stitches along the edge of the brim and shape it as desired.
Wire edging
Measure around brim of hat and then cut wire allowing for a 3-4 inch overlap. We will trim this at the end, it is better to have extra wire so that it is easier to work with.
Work sc around the wire in each single crochet around, stopping before you work the last 8 – 10 stitches.
At this point you want to secure the wire and this can be done a number of ways. Pick which ever works best for you. My favourite method is using the hot glue gun but all work well.
Securing wire in place
No matter the method you choose this next step is important. We need to mark the wire so that when we are securing it, it stays the exact size that it needs to be.
This is really easy, but there are just a couple of steps to make sure to get it in the right place.
Step 1. Lay your hat flat, and smooth the brim down with your hands. The goal here is to make sure that the wire is completely covered in sc. Your brim will still be rippled and not completely flat so do your best to make sure it is covered.
Step 2. Make sure the wires are over lapping at least one inch.
Step 3. Get a permanent marker and mark both wires in the middle of the overlap.
Step 4. Trim wires so that the overlap is no larger than 1” to 1 ½”.
At this point, you will want to choose the method of securing the wire in place. The two I recommend are either the floral tape or hot glue.
When using the hot glue, you will need to hold the wire in place as it cools and starts to set. I did the top part of the wire, then flipped the hat over to do the underside next.
If you are using the tape, start in the middle where we marked with the black marker and work to each end wrapping the tape continually around the wire until then ends are covered. You want to make sure that there are no sharp ends exposed.
Once you have worked to one end, cut the tape and start from the middle again working back to the opposite end.
Once the wire is secure, continue to work sc around the unfinished stitches of the round.
This method requires one additional finishing round.
For the final round, work a spike stitch or long single crochet into round all the way around the brim. Fasten off.
- Add Pattern to your Ravelry Library
- Download on Etsy
- Pin Now Make Later
0 – 6 Months
Using 6.50 mm hook Ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd st from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in 1st st and each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in 1st st *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in 1st 2 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (24)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in 1st 3 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (30)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in 1st 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (36)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in 1st 5 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (42)
Rnd 8: Sk 1st 2 sts, *2dc in next, dc in 2nd skipped stitch, sk next 2 sts*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (42)
Rnd 9: Sc in 1st and each st around (42)
Rnd 10: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (42)
Rnd 11: Sc in 1st and each st around (42)
Rnd 12: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (42)
BRIM
Note about resizing the brim: If at any point you find the brim is getting to a size you like simply stop adding increase rounds and add one final round of single crochet.
Change to 5.00 mm hook
Rnd 13: 2 sc in 1st and each st around (84)
Rnd 14: Sc in 1st 11 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 11 st, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (91)
Rnd 15: Sc in 1st 12 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (98)
Rnd 16: Sc in 1st and each st around (98)
Rnd 17: Sc in 1st 7 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 6 sts, sc in last 6 sts (106)
See page 6 for options for finishing the brim. Note I do not recommend wire for baby or toddler hats due to safety concerns.
If using contrast colour for finishing the brim change to that colour now.
Rnd 18: Sc in 1st 14 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (112)
Rnd 19: Sc in 1st and each st around (112)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
6–12 Months
Using 6.50 mm hook ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 8 sc in 2nd st from hook. (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in first st *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (24)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in first 2 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (32)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in first 3 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (40)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in first 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (48)
Rnd 7: Sk 1st 2 sts, *2dc in next, dc in 2nd skipped stitch, sk next 2 sts*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (48)
Rnd 8: Sc in 1st and each st around (48)
Rnd 9: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (48)
Rnd 10: Sc in 1st and each st around (48)
Rnd 11: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (48)
Rnd 12: Sc in 1st and each st around (48)
Rnd 13: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (48)
BRIM
Note about resizing the brim: If at any point you find the brim is getting to a size you like simply stop adding increase rounds and finish by adding two final rounds of single crochet.
Change to 5.00 mm hook
Rnd 14: 2 sc in 1st and each st around (96)
Rnd 15: Sc in 1st 11 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 11 st, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (104)
Rnd 16: Sc in 1st 6 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 6 sts, sc in last 6 sts (112)
Rnd 17: Sc in 1st 13 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (120)
Rnd 18: Sc in 1st and each st around (120)
Rnd 19: Sc in 1st 14 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (128)
Rnd 20: Sc in 1st 15 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (136)
Rnd 21: Sc in 1st 8 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 8 sts, sc in last 8 sts (144)
See page 6 for options for finishing the brim. Note I do not recommend wire for baby or toddler hats due to safety concerns.
If using contrast colour for finishing the brim change to that colour now.
Rnds 22 – 23: Sc in 1st and each st around (144)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
1 – 3 Years
Using 6.50 mm hook Ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 8 sc in 2nd st from hook. (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around (16)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in first st *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rpt from * to * till end of rnd (24)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in first 2 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* rpt from * to * till end of rnd (32)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in first 3 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* rpt from * to * till end of rnd (40)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in first 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* rpt from * to * till end of rnd (48)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in first 11 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 11 sts* rpt from *to* till end of rnd (52)
Rnd 8: Sk 1st 2 sts, *2dc in next, dc in 2nd skipped stitch, sk next 2 sts*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (51)
Rnd 9: Sc in 1st and each st around (51)
Rnd 10: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (51)
Rnd 11: Sc in 1st and each st around (51)
Rnd 12: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (51)
Rnd 13: Sc in 1st and each st around (51)
Rnd 14: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sc in last st (52)
BRIM
Note about resizing the brim: If at any point you find the brim is getting to a size you like simply stop adding increase rounds and finish by adding two final rounds of single crochet.
Change to 5.00 mm hook
Brim instructions on next page…
Rnd 15: 2 sc in 1st and each st around (104)
Rnd 16: Sc in 1st 12 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 12 st, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (112)
Rnd 17: Sc in 1st 7 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 6 sts. Sc in last 6 sts (120)
Rnd 18: Sc in 1st 14 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (128)
Rnd 19: Sc in st and each st around (128)
Rnd 20: Sc in 1st 7 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 8 sts, sc in last 8 sts of rnd (136)
Rnd 21: Sc in 1st and each st around (136)
Rnd 22: Sc in 1st 16 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (144)
Rnd 23: Sc in 1st 17 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (152)
See page 6 for options for finishing the brim. Note I do not recommend wire for baby or toddler hats due to safety concerns.
If using contrast colour for finishing the brim change to that colour now.
Rnds 24 – 25: Sc in 1st and each st around (152)
3 – 10 Years
Using 6.50 mm hook Ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd st from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in 1st st and each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in 1st st *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in 1st 2 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (24)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in 1st 3 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (30)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in 1st 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (36)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in 1st 5 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (42)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in 1st 6 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (48)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in 1st 7 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (54)
Rnd 10: Sk 1st 2 sts, *2dc in next, dc in 2nd skipped stitch, sk next 2 sts*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd sk last st (54)
Rnd 11: Sc in 1st and each st around (54)
Rnd 12: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (54)
Rnd 13: Sc in 1st and each st around (54)
Rnd 14: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (54)
Rnd 15: Sc in 1st and each st around (54)
Rnd 16: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (54)
BRIM
Note about resizing the brim: If at any point you find the brim is getting to a size you like simply stop adding increase rounds and finish by adding two final rounds of single crochet.
Change to 5.00 mm hook
Rnd 17: 2 sc in 1st and each st around (108)
Rnd 18: Sc in 1st 17 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 17 st, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (114)
Rnd 19: Sc in 1st 18 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (120)
Rnd 20: Sc in 1st 19 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 19 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (126)
Rnd 21: Sc in 1st 10 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 20 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 10 sts, sc in last 10 sts (132)
Rnd 22: Sc in 1st 21 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 21 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (138)
Rnd 23: Sc in 1st 11 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 11 sts, sc in last 11 sts (144)
Rnd 24: Sc in 1st 23 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 23 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (150)
Rnd 25: Sc in 1st and each st around (150)
Rnd 26: Sc in 1st 12 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 12 sts, sc in last 12 sts (156)
Rnd 27: Sc in 1st 25 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 25 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (162)
See page 6 for options for finishing the brim. Note if you are adding the wire this will be done when working your final round.
If using contrast colour for finishing the brim change to that colour now.
Rnds 28 – 29: Sc in 1st st and each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. (162)
Ladies
Using 6.50 mm hook Ch 2
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc in 2nd st from hook. (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in 1st st and each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: 1 sc in 1st st *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (18)
Rnd 4: 1 sc in 1st 2 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (24)
Rnd 5: 1 sc in 1st 3 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (30)
Rnd 6: 1 sc in 1st 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (36)
Rnd 7: 1 sc in 1st 5 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (42)
Rnd 8: 1 sc in 1st 6 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 6 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (48)
Rnd 9: 1 sc in 1st 7 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 7 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (54)
Rnd 10: 1 sc in 1st 8 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 8 sts* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (60)
Rnd 11: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (60)
Rnd 12: Sc in 1st and each st around (60)
Rnd 13: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (60)
Rnd 14: Sc in 1st and each st around (60)
Rnd 15: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (60)
Rnd 16: Sc in 1st and each st around (60)
Rnd 17: Sk 1st st, 2dc in next, dc in skipped stitch *sk next 2 sts, 2dc in next st, dc in 2nd skipped stitch*, rpt from *to* till end of rnd, sk last st (60)
BRIM
Note about resizing the brim: If at any point you find the brim is getting to a size you like simply stop adding increase rounds and finish by adding two final rounds of single crochet.
Change to 5.00 mm hook
Rnd 18: 2 sc in 1st and each st around (120)
Rnd 19: Sc in 1st 14 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 14 st, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (128)
Rnd 20: Sc in 1st 15 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 15 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (136)
Rnd 21: Sc in 1st 8 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 8 sts, sc in last 8 sts (144)
Rnd 22: Sc in 1st 17 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 17 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (152)
Rnd 23: Sc in 1st 18 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (160)
Rnd 24: Sc in 1st 19 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 19 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (168)
Rnd 25: Sc in 1st 10 sts, 2 sc in next, *sc in next 20 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 10 sts, sc in last 10 sts (176)
Rnd 26: Sc in 1st 21 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 21 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (184)
Rnd 27: Sc in 1st and each st around (184)
Rnd 28: Sc in 1st 11 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to last 11 sts, sc in last 11 sts (192)
Rnd 29: Sc in 1st 23 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 23 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (200)
Rnd 30: Sc in 1st 24 sts, 2sc in next, *sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc in next* rpt from * to * to 2nd last st, work 2 sc in last st. (208)
See page 6 for options for finishing the brim. Note if you are adding the wire this will be done when working your final round. Cont’d next page…
If using contrast colour for finishing the brim change to that colour now.
Rnds 31 – 32: Sc in 1st st and each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends. (208)
- Add Pattern to your Ravelry Library
- Download on Etsy
- Pin Now Make Later
Want in on extra free crochet patterns, crochet labels, crochet planners and more? Just hit ‘yes i want in’ and join the over 7500 people enjoying these downloads and become part of the PDAFAM!
Copyright
All patterns and photos are copyright protected, you are welcome to sell finished products. Please credit @prettydarnadorable. Please do not alter, copy parts of, or piece my different patterns together and claim the design as your own.
This includes any items listed with alterations to my original designs/pattern(s), as well as items listed for sale on Etsy, blogs, websites, Facebook or any other site.
Leave a Reply